This
was a big day for everyone but in different ways. The South and North Rim of the Grand Canyon are only about 25km apart as the crow flies. But there is no short way of getting from one to the other. Samuel and Elise drove. Eric hiked.
It was tough and very cold getting out of the sleeping bag at 5.30. I packed about 2 liters of fluid, one litre of water and one of Gatorade and light food - trail mix, muesli bars and bread. Everything else was sorted the night before and after a quick breakfast and a few guilty thoughts about leaving the camp pack up to Elise and Samuel I was on my way at 6. The bus dropped me at the South Kaibab trailhead (2195m) at 6.30 and headed off after a few dawn photos.
Even though it was early there was a lot of people already on the trail heading for various destinations heeding the National Parks advice about making an early start. Apart from being the perfect time for walking, the early morning light makes stunning scenery look even better.
After a few kms walking fast I was caught by a few runners. I jogged along with them for a little while chatting to one guy doing the Rim to Rim for the fifth time. Eventually I let them go as I was planning an easy day rather than trying to set a time, although they were running barely faster than I was walking - the South Kaibab Trail is quite rough, steep and rocky with some huge drops (and very busy at this time of day) so it's not made for moving too rapidly unless you're really confident.
Reaching the Tipoff, a flattish arid area (8km, 1195m) after about 90 minutes (including photo stops) I filled up my water bottles and had another chat with my new running friends who were taking a short break. There were less hikers around now as I got further down the canyon into the serious hiking zone and outdistanced most of the other earlier starters. The next 45 minutes was the final steep descent to the river where I had to take a few more photo breaks as I had caught up to, and was stuck behind, the early morning mule train.
The river (11km, 750m) was beautiful, cool and green. With the altitude change and the stifling effect of the canyon walls the temperature difference between rim and canyon bottom can be massive, especially in summer, but in fall with an early start it was perfect at the bottom. I stopped by the river for my second breakfast, photos and another water refill before the short hike to Phantom Ranch and the Ranger Station.
Pushing on past Phantom Ranch the trail climbs very gradually for the next 10km to Ribbon Falls (24km, 1146m). The first part was narrow box canyon by Bright Angel Creek - again quite pleasant (though this can apparently be a hellhole in Summer) and shaded and I jogged a lot of this section. After a while the canyon widens into a greenish but harsh valley and it got warmer as I pressed on to Cottonwood campground (26km, 1241m). I stopped just before the campground for a decent break to have some more food and then again briefly at Cottonwood for another bottle refill in preparation for the huge climb out. By now the sun was well and truly up and the shade had gone and it was much, much, warmer.
Soon the big climb started. It was tough as advertised but the scenery was stunning, particularly some of the sheer walls of reddish rock. I passed the turnoff to Roaring Springs but choose not to take the short side trip but I could see the spring from the other side of the valley. Soon the trail got a bit crazy with some scary sections a meter or so wide above a massive drop. I wouldn't be too keen riding a mule along these bits. I walked with a British couple for a little while and the chat was a nice distraction from the increasing tiredness in my legs.
After a series of switchbacks I reached Supai tunnel (34km, 2085m). By this stage I had slowed right down and had a few small cramps. Obviously yesterdays hike to Plateau Point had taken a toll. After a short break here I pushed on - just over 3km and 425m climb to go! This last 3ks took a while with a few more short breaks and a stop to ask someone to take a photo at the spectacular Coconito Overlook (36km, 2270m). By now the trail was transitioning from semi arid brush and rocks into the spruce and fir forest that covers much of the North Rim. The shade was welcome.
Eventually at 1pm, six and a half hours after starting there it was, the North Kaibab Trailhead (37km, 2510m). I sat down and drank most of my Gatorade (which I had saved for a "just in case" moment) and had a chat to a Ranger who told me that Rim to Rim is old hat and doing the Rim to Rim to Rim (i.e across and back again) is the new thing! To be fair not usually in one day though. A few minutes after I finished a lady who I had passed in the last few kms walked in to meet her waiting family. She was easily older than me and had started at the South Rim at 5.30am.
I still had another three km's to walk along the Bridle Path to Grand Canyon Lodge where we were staying for the night. Surprisingly this went pretty quickly and I even broke into a jog for a little bit (it was mainly flat and downhill). It turned out my cramping was easily cured by a bit of sports drink to replace the electrolytes - obviously I had made a strategic error not drinking my big bottle of Gatorade on the trail. Elise and Sam drove past me on the road next to the trail with 2km still to go and didn't see me which was a bit annoying to say the least!
All up I think I did about 40km. Officially the trail is 34km plus the extra 3km at the end but I did a bit extra around the Colorado River and at a few other places. My Garmin track measured 44kms but it jumped around a bit in some of the deep canyons (I don't think I really ran a 4 minute km on the trail between Phantom Ranch and Ribbon Falls!). Total climb was 1,855m. Having done the Plateau Point walk just 24 hours earlier meant I did about 3km climb over two days. No wonder my legs were sore.
It was a hard hike but I give it the highest possible recommendation. If you're fit enough it is a must do if you visit the Canyon. The scenery is simply out of this world.
Taking up our journey, we then stopped at desert view to take in a final view from the south side before our drive.
The only other couple of stops were to refresh ourselves and walk a bit on the side of the road and when we crossed the Colorado river.
Erics day
For many years I have wanted to do the iconic Grant Canyon Rim to Rim hike. Many people do it over two days staying overnight at Phantom Ranch by the Colorado River, however with accommodation bookings only available via lottery and made one year in advance this was never an option. The National Parks Service offers strong advice against doing walks like this in one day and they provide grim warnings about rescues and fatalities. In reality if you're fit and sensible it's not too difficult especially doing the walk outside the hellish heat of summer. I did choose to do the hike in the hardest direction though (the North Rim is 300-400 meters higher in altitude than the South).It was tough and very cold getting out of the sleeping bag at 5.30. I packed about 2 liters of fluid, one litre of water and one of Gatorade and light food - trail mix, muesli bars and bread. Everything else was sorted the night before and after a quick breakfast and a few guilty thoughts about leaving the camp pack up to Elise and Samuel I was on my way at 6. The bus dropped me at the South Kaibab trailhead (2195m) at 6.30 and headed off after a few dawn photos.
Even though it was early there was a lot of people already on the trail heading for various destinations heeding the National Parks advice about making an early start. Apart from being the perfect time for walking, the early morning light makes stunning scenery look even better.
After a few kms walking fast I was caught by a few runners. I jogged along with them for a little while chatting to one guy doing the Rim to Rim for the fifth time. Eventually I let them go as I was planning an easy day rather than trying to set a time, although they were running barely faster than I was walking - the South Kaibab Trail is quite rough, steep and rocky with some huge drops (and very busy at this time of day) so it's not made for moving too rapidly unless you're really confident.
Reaching the Tipoff, a flattish arid area (8km, 1195m) after about 90 minutes (including photo stops) I filled up my water bottles and had another chat with my new running friends who were taking a short break. There were less hikers around now as I got further down the canyon into the serious hiking zone and outdistanced most of the other earlier starters. The next 45 minutes was the final steep descent to the river where I had to take a few more photo breaks as I had caught up to, and was stuck behind, the early morning mule train.
The river (11km, 750m) was beautiful, cool and green. With the altitude change and the stifling effect of the canyon walls the temperature difference between rim and canyon bottom can be massive, especially in summer, but in fall with an early start it was perfect at the bottom. I stopped by the river for my second breakfast, photos and another water refill before the short hike to Phantom Ranch and the Ranger Station.
Pushing on past Phantom Ranch the trail climbs very gradually for the next 10km to Ribbon Falls (24km, 1146m). The first part was narrow box canyon by Bright Angel Creek - again quite pleasant (though this can apparently be a hellhole in Summer) and shaded and I jogged a lot of this section. After a while the canyon widens into a greenish but harsh valley and it got warmer as I pressed on to Cottonwood campground (26km, 1241m). I stopped just before the campground for a decent break to have some more food and then again briefly at Cottonwood for another bottle refill in preparation for the huge climb out. By now the sun was well and truly up and the shade had gone and it was much, much, warmer.
Soon the big climb started. It was tough as advertised but the scenery was stunning, particularly some of the sheer walls of reddish rock. I passed the turnoff to Roaring Springs but choose not to take the short side trip but I could see the spring from the other side of the valley. Soon the trail got a bit crazy with some scary sections a meter or so wide above a massive drop. I wouldn't be too keen riding a mule along these bits. I walked with a British couple for a little while and the chat was a nice distraction from the increasing tiredness in my legs.
After a series of switchbacks I reached Supai tunnel (34km, 2085m). By this stage I had slowed right down and had a few small cramps. Obviously yesterdays hike to Plateau Point had taken a toll. After a short break here I pushed on - just over 3km and 425m climb to go! This last 3ks took a while with a few more short breaks and a stop to ask someone to take a photo at the spectacular Coconito Overlook (36km, 2270m). By now the trail was transitioning from semi arid brush and rocks into the spruce and fir forest that covers much of the North Rim. The shade was welcome.
Eventually at 1pm, six and a half hours after starting there it was, the North Kaibab Trailhead (37km, 2510m). I sat down and drank most of my Gatorade (which I had saved for a "just in case" moment) and had a chat to a Ranger who told me that Rim to Rim is old hat and doing the Rim to Rim to Rim (i.e across and back again) is the new thing! To be fair not usually in one day though. A few minutes after I finished a lady who I had passed in the last few kms walked in to meet her waiting family. She was easily older than me and had started at the South Rim at 5.30am.
I still had another three km's to walk along the Bridle Path to Grand Canyon Lodge where we were staying for the night. Surprisingly this went pretty quickly and I even broke into a jog for a little bit (it was mainly flat and downhill). It turned out my cramping was easily cured by a bit of sports drink to replace the electrolytes - obviously I had made a strategic error not drinking my big bottle of Gatorade on the trail. Elise and Sam drove past me on the road next to the trail with 2km still to go and didn't see me which was a bit annoying to say the least!
All up I think I did about 40km. Officially the trail is 34km plus the extra 3km at the end but I did a bit extra around the Colorado River and at a few other places. My Garmin track measured 44kms but it jumped around a bit in some of the deep canyons (I don't think I really ran a 4 minute km on the trail between Phantom Ranch and Ribbon Falls!). Total climb was 1,855m. Having done the Plateau Point walk just 24 hours earlier meant I did about 3km climb over two days. No wonder my legs were sore.
It was a hard hike but I give it the highest possible recommendation. If you're fit enough it is a must do if you visit the Canyon. The scenery is simply out of this world.
Elise and Samuels Day
After wrestling unsuccessfully with pulling down tents and camping gear (fortunately the car is big and with one less person the stuff fitted), Samuel and I set off for a stop at the Visitors Centre to get Samuel’s junior ranger badge.
Samuel
joined the junior rangers program which involves getting a book and completing
parts of it before swearing an oath and obtaining a junior ranger badge. On this occasion he answered some questions, viewed a video and wrote a poem. Part of the oath he swore involved saying he would
not pick flowers or his nose so he laughed as he was saying it.
One
thing which Samuel asked the rangers was how the squirrels got down to Indian Gardens which is fairly low in the canyon. The first ranger said he’d seen them
even lower and agreed with daddy’s surmise that each successive generation went lower. The second ranger said that there are squirrels on the north rim which
look similar to those on the south, however their DNA is so different that they
can not breed. The things you find out!
Taking up our journey, we then stopped at desert view to take in a final view from the south side before our drive.
The only other couple of stops were to refresh ourselves and walk a bit on the side of the road and when we crossed the Colorado river.
The
drive was no easy feat and took at least 3.5 hours of driving time. As you
know, driving is not really my thing, but I am not feeling so worried about it
and have lost my fear of driving on the wrong side of the road. It seems pretty
normal now! We listened to Harry Potter too which is great. Samuel was
excellent. It felt like a long day.
As
we drove, I thought of Eric traversing the canyon. When I saw how far and how long (after the fact) I would
have worried more about him. I am very proud
of him for making such a trip.
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