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Riads and Ramadan

This post is a more detailed train of thoughts for the more interested/hardy reader.

Riads 

Riad means garden but they seem to refer to buildings and these buildings fascinate me. They are common in the Medinas and many have been transformed into guest houses. The traditional Riads we have seen were built as homes for multiple generations of one family. They tend to be rectangular buildings with no external windows and a central, open courtyard (garden). The ones we have seen have been at least 3 storeys high, with high ceilings and thick walls especially the external walls and central walls in the courtyard. They often have balconies on their flat roofs.


Courtyard of Riad Le Grand Alcazar


Riads appear to be designed to be naturally air conditioning, families lived in the bottom floor during the summer months, where it was cool. They gradually moved upstairs as the seasons changed. In winter they took advantage of the sun and cedar wood decoration’s capacity to absorb heat to remain warm in the topmost storey. 




Courtyards are the centre of activity and have tiled floors, with beautiful, tranquil, mosaics making them a focal point for the family at the same time as protecting the dwelling and draining the water when it rains. Higher up on the courtyard walls have plaster decorations and then cedar decorations at the top. 



I feel that the climate, the design, the tendency for the family to look inward rather than on a natural view and the requirements of the religion about art appear to have become a platform for the beautiful art characteristic of Morocco - pottery, tiles, mosaics, iron work, intricate lights, exotic woven fabrics. 









Ramadan
We are here right, smack bang in the middle of Ramadan. I had not considered the timing at all. Many people here, if not all, are making Ramadan where they fast from everything, even water, and cigarettes, during daylight hours. The fast is broken at about 7:20 pm and people can again eat around 3am before refraining until the next evening. One can drink before light in the morning but not during daylight hours. 

There are also prayer times five times a day and night. People observing Ramadan have told me it is a time to consider others, especially those not as fortunate as you. These disciplines appear to be most demanding especially in a country which is so hot. 

And yet the country is geared for it. In Fes, cannons sound when the fast commences and ends each day. Fasting is observed by those as young as 10 if they feel they can cope and the schools continue but classes only go in the morning or the afternoon, I am told classes are less demanding than normal. 

I'm not quite sure how people manage on a day to day level. They do have deep compassion for each other as they deal with the effects of fasting. For example, on one trip, our driver asked if he could pick up a boy walking on a long dry, hot road kilometres from town even though drivers are not supposed to take hitch hikers. The sun was beating down, we’d walked in the sun ourselves in Volubis and consumed tonnes of water. The driver had commpassion on the boy. Our guides also told us that if someone makes a mistake they laugh and say 'they are making Ramadan'.

During Ramadan alcohol can not be sold. Apparently Muslim faith precludes its consumption anyway but many tourists choose not to come to Morocco during Ramadan because of the ban on alcohol sales. 

The experience of observing Ramadan has given me more compassion towards those of Muslim faith in non-Muslim countries.  It must be very hard to observe Ramadan in a place where school and work continue on and fewer people are participating.

There are special treats to be had during Ramadan including these pictured. 


Ramadan treats




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