Skip to main content

Fes: the tour around and about

Trying to organise your own tour of Fes is just about impossible even for the most seasoned first world traveller.  We wouldn't be caught dead driving (we might have ended up dead!) and didn't even bother to start investigating public transport.  Through our Riad we organised a guide for a day to take us around those sights too far to reach on foot and too complicated or tricky to find and visit in the Medina ourselves.

Part of the Medina from the outside

Our guide knew literally everybody in Fes and quite a few celebrities beyond (including Mohammed Ali and Michael Douglas - he had the pictures on his phone to prove it).  After taking in a view of the city from outside the walls, we visited some public gardens which were very impressive given the semi arid climate.

After driving past a few monuments and the kings palace (he has many palaces all over Morocco), we visited the Jewish cemetery. Apparently relations between the two religions are quite cordial in Morocco.

Lunch was at McDonalds - this was the guide's, not Samuel's idea.  We suspect he was keen to sample these expensive western delights (paid for by us) including a huge soft drink which can't have sat well with his self-proclaimed diabetes.  Interestingly at Maccas there were many students of both sexes sitting together reading their textbooks, the girls often without headscaves which further reinforced our view (from tourists and locals seen in other locations in Fes) that things are a bit more tolerant in Morocco than sometimes portrayed in Western media.
Only available after nightfall

After lunch we had the more "commercial" part of the tour where the guide takes us to the potters/tannery/weavers and we go through the hard sell.  We spent by far the most time at the pottery place that makes all manner of pots, tagines, cups and tiles not to mention putting the tiles together in amazing mosaics.  We purchased and shipped home a number of plates.



After a while it got a bit irritating.  We visited the leather shop, a lamp shop, a carpetmaker, a textile store, a spice place and finally we pretty much reached the end of our patience when we visited a jewellery store where the owner almost had Elise in tears trying to sell her a crappy piece of jewellery.



To be fair it wasn't all commercial in the afternoon.  Before seeing the leather store we got to see the tanneries and to tour an old Madrassa now closed.  We also got to look inside the door and take photos of two Mosques that were ornately decorated with amazing tilework and see a bit more of the more interesting sections of the Medina.
In the old Madrassa

This was reputedly the narrowest street in the Medina



The tannery has been operating like this for around 1000 years


The beautiful Mosques of Fes

All up it was a very interesting day and well worth the trip even putting up with the shopping hard sell!




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Inca Trail day 4

This was the day we would arrive at Macchu Picchu so we awoke with a keen sense of anticipation.   To celebrate the last day on the trail, somehow the chef had whipped up an enormous cake which was served after breakfast.  After a discussion with Marco about the likely weather over the next two days we agreed that it would be best to tour Macchu Picchu as soon as we arrived in mid afternoon rather than wait until tomorrow. Marco assured us that this would mean less crowds and better weather (he was right). We could see the backside of the mountain above Macchu Picchu in front of us as we started out.  Unlike the last two days, today was mainly downhill.  We would have to descend about 1,000 meters and judging by the first part of the morning walk, most of this would be on steep and slippery rocky steps. After alternating descents and traversing along steep hillsides through cloud forest and bamboo groves we reached the ruins of Intipata. Intipata was a very...

Dining in Denpasar

 A key part of any holiday experience is food.  During the first week of our stay in Bali we had two nice and very contrasting dining experiences. Merah Putih is billed as the best Indonesian restaurant in Denpasar. It was just a few blocks from our Seminyak villa so we prebooked well ahead of time for a visit. The restaurant venue is very impressive - from the inside it looks a bit like a giant greenhouse, including the plants. The food was spectacular.  While every dish was good, the Bak Pao Sapi (Beef steamed buns) and Semur Sapi (slow roasted beef cheek) were incredible.   Then for Christmas Eve lunch we had booked at Starfish Bloo at W Bali, one of the swankiest Sunday Brunch venues on the island.  Sunday brunch buffets are a signature Bali experience with many of the big international hotels putting on all you can eat extravaganzas once a week. Needless to say the meal was jaw dropping.  We had a great table close to the beach where we enjoyed un...

Santa Cruz

Unlike our first island hop, Isabela to Santa Cruz was done by boat (see the addendum below for my thoughts about inter island boat travel).  At least the early morning trip was a smooth one.  Luckily we had managed to book an apartment in Puerto Ayora which meant we could do some of our own catering for a change.  By the time we arrived we were slowing down some, we felt we'd seen much of the wildlife the islands offered and frankly, we were exhausted. So we didn't venture too far from Puerto Ayora. One nice place near town we did visit (Eric went twice) was Tortuga bay which was exactly what you would expect a tropical beach to look like.  In fact it had two beaches, one a surf beach and one a quiet cove where you could snorkel with barely a ripple.  There wasn't much wildlife here except a few Iguanas (and one turtle) but the warm water was great for a swim nevertheless. As with San Cristobal we took a taxi trip to the highlands, crawling in Lava tub...