Beauty really does not benefit from being shrouded - or missed altogether. Overnight I awoke a number of times to hear heavy rain on the cabin roof. While it made things feel cozy for sleeping, we soon learned it also made things too rough for our planned caving adventure. So instead of riding rubber tubes through caves with glow worms we remained dry and warm and set out for Frans Josef. Our early morning drive along the west coast had all the hallmarks of being spectacular. For example, the road closely hugged the shoreline, bordered on one side by lushly wooded cliffs and on the other by the wild foamy sea: craggy, jagged rocks poking out between the waves. And yet we could only partly see glimpses of it due to the shrouding of fog. Our first stop was Punakaiki or pancake rocks which also boasts a blow hole. Being there so early meant we had it all to ourselves. A short walk on a very well-manicured track set up for wheelchairs brought us close to the amazing rock formations....